By: Justin Butts Photo by: Rachel Benavides
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In the lingering heat of September, when most plants wither inbrthe scorching sun, all of South Texas becomes a glittering gardenbrof sweet, purple fruit. It’s called tuna, the fruit of the prickly pearbrcactus, and there is a near-limitless supply now ripe for picking. Best of all, you don’t even have to grow it yourself!
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A Native American Staplebr
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Prickly pear cactus fruit was a staple food of the Native Americans ofbrSouth Texas for centuries. Each year at this time, prior to Europeanbrsettlement, the tribes of our region called a truce and gathered in thebrvicinity of modern-day Alice, Texas, for the annual tuna harvest.br
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During August and September each year, the Mariames, Anagados,brCharrucos, and Avavares converged on the tuna grounds. e tribesbrpicked their way to the center of elaborate prickly pear stands to campbrin safety from enemies. They lounged around smoky res, danced andbrsang, and ate their ll of sweet scarlet fruit.br
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The tuna festival included fairs where the natives could trade goods,brbarter for brides, and play games. It was the best time of the year.br
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Tunas grow in the desert when most plants are barren. Tunas, rich inbrvitamin C and anti-oxidants, were vital to the survival of these desert-dwelling tribes.br
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How to Harvest Tunasbr
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Tunas are covered with barbed, hair-like thorns, called glochids, thatbrare difficult to see but painful to the touch. Use tongs to pluck the tunasbrfrom the prickly pear pads. Choose firm, darkly-colored fruit. The picking goes quickly once you find your rhythm.br
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Watch for cactus spines as you reach among the prickly pears. Watchbralso for rattlesnakes, which hide in the shade beneath the cactus…andbrdon’t always rattle before they strike.br
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Native Americans singed their tunas over a camp fire to remove thebrglochids. Fire (even a gas burner on the stove) is still the fastest andbrmost authentic method to remove the glochids from your wild-pickedbrfruit.br
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Many Culinary Usesbr
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Peel the tuna skin away with a knife to reveal the scarlet pulp. Tuna pulpbris sweet, dark, and delicious. Eat tuna pulp raw or juice tunas to sweetenbrtea and other beverages. For a real treat, boil down tuna fruit with sugarbrto make a fabulous crimson jelly.br
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Tunas are a challenge to harvest in a desert of snakes and thorns, butbrthat is part of the adventure that makes this wild harvest so rare and sobrcompletely authentic.br
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Yes, there are thorns in the desert, but there is also an abundant supplybrof sweet scarlet fruit, just beyond your doorstep and ripe for the pickingbr
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