Louis Lassen made history when he cooked the first documented hamburger in 1900. Lassen’s family retells how a rushed patron hurried over to his lunch wagon and exclaimed, “Louie! I’m in a rush, slap a meat puck between two planks and step on it!” Louis obliged, sandwiching ground meat trimmings between two slices of toast.
Over the past century, burgers have been smashed, smothered and stuffed with every ingredient imaginable. And while we love creative flavor combinations as much as the next people, creating a great burger boils down to a handful of essential ingredients and a few fundamental techniques.
Hamburger experts agree that the key element is the meat. A higher ratio of fat to lean means a more succulent, flavorful burger. Ground brisket, sirloin or ribeye with 20% fat that is ground the same day is ideal. Locals can pick up brisket burgers at Moody’s Meat Market or rib hamburger patties at Boarri Craft.
As with any dish, mindful seasoning is crucial. Adding salt throughout the ground meat causes the protein strands to denature, resulting in a tough, rubbery texture. Dress only the surface of the patty with salt and pepper immediately before cooking it tender and juicy. Pay closer attention to salt measurements if you intend to use a higher-sodium cheese, like Roquefort or feta.
Heat also plays a major role in concocting the perfect burger. Thinner patties benefit from a higher heat and short cooking time. Patties more than a half-inch thick need moderate heat for a medium rare center. Grill masters may insist on cooking their burgers over coals, but a cast-iron skillet provides an even cooking surface with less room for error. Skillets also trap flavor-packed drippings that are perfect for toasting buns.
Finishing burgers is more of an art than a science. Many burgers sport a crisp leaf of buttercrunch lettuce and a couple of slices of vine-ripened tomatoes. An acidic ingredient, such as pickled vegetables, can counter the umami meat and cheese. The best condiment for a burger is heavily debated and should be customized to suit the other ingredients and the diner’s personal preference.
Today Louis’ Lunch serves hamburgers in New Haven, Connecticut, still owned and operated by the Lassen family. We’ve cooked up a classic hamburger recipe that would make Lassen proud. With a few fundamental techniques and a handful of key ingredients, your next burger could be your best.
Recipe: Good Ol’ Hamburger
Serves 4
Prep time: 10 minutes
Cook time: 25 minutes
Ingredients:
- 1 tbsp beef tallow
- (from grass-fed cows)
- 4 Hawaiian hamburger buns
- 2 lbs ground brisket or short rib (80% lean/20% fat)
- 2 tsp kosher salt
- 1 tsp black pepper
- 4 slices Vermont cheddar
- 8 leaves butter lettuce, washed and patted dry
- 2 large tomatoes, sliced
- 1/2 red onion, thinly sliced
- 12 pickle slices
Directions:
In a small bowl, mix together sauce ingredients (seen on pg. 51) until a thick sauce is formed. Chill until ready for use.
Preheat a large skillet over medium heat until it begins to smoke. Add 1 tbsp of grass-fed beef tallow to the pan.
Divide beef into four equal portions. Form each section into a ball with your hands, then flatten it into a disk about 1/2 -inch thick. Repeat the process to form four identical patties. Season each patty with 1/2 tsp salt and 1/4 tsp pepper, adjusting to taste. Sear patties for 4-5 minutes, until a brown crust has formed. Flip the burgers and cook an additional 4-5 minutes until interior measures 130-135°F for medium-rare and 140-145°F for medium. During the last minute of cooking, place a slice of cheddar on patty and cover skillet with a lid.
Transfer cheesy patties to a plate and add buns to the reserved pan drippings. Add 1 tbsp butter to the skillet, if needed. Toast top and bottom buns on both sides for 1 minute, until golden brown. Remove from heat. Optional: Saute onion slices in the same skillet for 8 minutes, until soft and golden.
Spread prepared burger sauce on the bottom bun, topping with the patty and vegetables. Finish hamburgers with the top bun and enjoy immediately.
Burger Sauce
- 1/4 cup mayonnaise
- 2 tbsp barbecue sauce
- 1 tbsp distilled vinegar
- 2 tsp Dijon mustard
- 2 tsp brown sugar
- 1/2 tsp paprika
- 1/2 tsp garlic powder