A new generation is rediscovering tinned fish as a quietly excellent indulgence. What was once a sign of economic practicality is now a multi-billion-dollar global industry. Specialty stores such as Italian Cowboy Food and Provisions, Cabana Pantry and Boarri Craft Meats & Goods have sections within their thoughtfully curated markets dedicated to a vast array of “conservas” (premium Iberian-style tinned seafood). Small oily fish such as sardines, mackerel, anchovies and herring are found beside shellfish, mollusks, tuna and trout, artistically decorated with vintage illustrations among the brands. It’s official: Tinned fish is chic.
Before a decline in sales in the 1960s, when tuna took off in popularity, tinned fish peaked in the 1940s as a form of patriotic consumption during and after World War II, due to its high nutritional value and portability for soldiers and as a vital resource for civilians facing food shortages. At the height of the pandemic in 2020, tinned fish began its modern resurgence, dubbed the “sardine renaissance,” as a beneficial, shelf-stable, high-protein pantry staple. In 2022, tinned fish began its pantry pivot with an explosion on social media.
“Seacuterie” boards, where glistening cans of a variety of tinned fish were paired with crusty bread, thoughtfully sliced cheeses, Maldon salted cherry tomatoes and other crudites, lush herbs, fresh citrus, briny olives and vinegary sauces became the perfect focal point for a “tinned-fish date night.” Beauty enthusiasts began embracing “skin-care-in-a-can” as an “inside-out” approach to beauty routines, driven by the “glass-skin” aesthetic that the concentrated nutrients, found particularly in sardines, deliver. With gorgeous packaging that piques the curiosity of even the most timid, tinned fish has successfully repositioned from survival food to approachable luxury.
Locally, the Coastal Bend is flourishing with experts eager to educate those ready to convert from an ick to a yum, and to inspire connoisseurs with simple, modern recipes featuring artisanal tins sold at their gourmet specialty stores. At Italian Cowboy, owners Deidra Ciriello and Lowell Rothschild advise on intentional pairings of their sustainably sourced tinned fish offerings with their extensive Italian wine collection.
“We like to empower customers to understand how to put a meal together,” Ciriello shared.
Crystal Lyons, owner of Cabana Pantry, offers interactive experiences, including community and private culinary classes, for those wanting to master a “seacuterie” board with her handpicked collection of tinned seafood. In collaboration with Boarri, Chef Natalie Trevino launched “Tinned Fish Friday,” a digital series designed as an introduction to tinned fish, in which Trevino demonstrates creative, simple, delectable recipes with a pop of a new tin each week.
Although basic tinned fish remains available in grocery stores, the brands from these specialty stores, sourced from specific coasts and harvested in particular seasons, offer a practical and sophisticated experience for a quiet meal alone or an impromptu get-together.
Already cooked, tinned fish can be consumed simply from the can, with a squeeze of lemon, or with more of a culinary caress to showcase the tin’s cargo. In addition to adorning a board of tinned fish with accoutrements, a mouthwatering variety of methods can be used to incorporate tinned fish into various dishes at home. Mackerel and sardines can be gently folded into pasta with crushed red pepper, garlic and olive oil. “Tinned fish toast” involves rubbing raw garlic into the ridges of crusty bread, topping with grated and strained tomato (pon con tomate, as mentioned by Lyon of Cabana Pantry), layering with anchovies or sardines and adding a crunchy finish with pine nuts or crisp radishes. For spices, “Sumac is really good on tinned fish toast, along with Aleppo pepper and Maldon,” Lyon said.
Mussels in escabeche or octopus also shine when served cold in a salad with a light vinaigrette. A rice bowl with smoked trout, avocado, green onions and a drizzle of spicy mayonnaise is another favorite of tinned fish enthusiasts, proving that luxury doesn’t require hours in the kitchen, just a bit of inspiration and the pull of a tab.
Shop tinned fish locally at:
Cabana Pantry 14493 SPID, Ste. E & F
Boarri 817 S. Staples St.
Italian Cowboy 2615 TX-35 BUS N, Rockport
